Getting ready to custom a ML Iron Man...

[pairadocs]

Ahh, the ol' "boil and ah... fuck" method. [img]wink.gif[/img]

eh. Doombot is overrated.

I miss my Shrek Dragon... [img]frown.gif[/img] I sold my MIB one when I was unemployed two summers ago. Some old lady ended up paying like $90 for it... and then she said it was a gift for her grandkids to play with! My head's still shaking over that one...

[Lord Megatron]

gracias mucho, and I'm wondering what kind of scheme to use, one of them will become a war machine once I get to the sculpy store.

Any thoughts or armor variations that you would like to see?

[baimun]

I use Ceramcoat brand paints... they have a similar look to McFarlane paints (not too shiny)

Also DON'T USE CHEAP BRUSHES.... unless you are particularly LOOKING for brush strokes...

... but especially flesh tones need to blend smoothly and you need good soft bristle brushes.

[toymank]

I find that if you dilute or water down the paint a little, you dont get brush marks, but, you need to do more layers, sometimes worth the time though

[pairadocs]

everything everyone else said. Don't use cheap brushes or paint, and primer it first.

If you want to paint joints, where you still wish to be able to move the joint after painting without the paint scraping off, do this: prime it, paint it, then apply a thin coat of superglue on it with a toothpick (the painted part). Be careful NOT to get it IN the joint, or it ain't moving at all anymore. Once dried, the paint won't rub off when you move the joint. THis is especially handy with ML figs. Don't wanna lose any of that great articulation!!

<font color="#cd6600" size="1">[ January 29, 2004 12:28 PM: Message edited by: pairadocs ]</font>

[Not Hunk]

the odd thing is only with white does cheap brushes leave marks for me, though some of them swanky high price bruhes have too. though I never thought of the Super Glue thing.

[Lord Megatron]

ended up turning him into a battle damaged version with a lot of heavy blackwash and dark colors, looks like he's been through hell, and he has

8 trips in the pyrex measuring cup inside my microwave and still kickin

now when I get my Dr. Doom next week, I got myself my "Doom's Bitch Armor" Iron Man

[pairadocs]

ooo... you can really screw up a figure in the nuker like that man.

Get an old pot, and boil the water on a stove. Then you can just dip the area you want to pop out. You can also have a bowl or something of cold water nearby to dip the popped pieces in to get back to normal.

and use a rag or cloth or something when pulling apart the pieces. The torso can trap that water... and OWIE!!

(I just got the feeling back in my left thumb from last weekend. Fucking Creech holds a LOT of water in him...) [img]wink.gif[/img]

[Peter Peeker]

well, I guess I'm the oddball, cuz I NEVER primer(wife complains 'bout the smell), and I use semi-cheap brushes.
but then again, I have one style, and I stick to it...
brush strokes just don't happen...

my plan:
1.paint the whole thing black(or other dark colour).
2.drybrush other colours.
3.clearcoat
4.send Peeker $$$$

[pairadocs]

Originally posted by Peter Peeker:
[QB]well, I guess I'm the oddball, cuz I NEVER primer(wife complains 'bout the smell), and I use semi-cheap brushes.
but then again, I have one style, and I stick to it...
brush strokes just don't happen...

QB]

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No primer? You don't use enamels do you?

Primer really helps the paint stick, especially if you want to pose after painting. If it's gonna be a statue when you're done, or you don't plan to handle it a lot, you can get away with it most times. Depends on the plastic of the figure.

I used to paint lead miniatures, so its old habit to primer, but its good painting practice in general. [img]wink.gif[/img]